Saturday, November 30, 2013

Israeli Realities

I started working in a high-tech company (Optitex) located in Rosh Ha Ayin.
First shock - my native tongue, Russian, is spoken freely, loudly and openly all around the office. I have used to a mix of Indians, Pakistani, Brazilians, Chinese and some "native" Americans in the US high-tech but never before I have had the privilege of a big Russian company.  There are also a few Canadians,  US immigrants, Argentinians, and as a result of such non-sabra mix we could not even do one couplet of the traditional Hebrew "Ma oszy yeshiati.." song at the Hanukkah party.

Second shock - on a hill near our busy high-tech park is an Arab village and twice every day we hear Muslim singing-style prayers translated via speakers to the whole area. Our new employee from Ashdod always jumps as she mistakes this sound for the air attack siren that they are so accustomed to in her area.  Once a week we go to this village to eat hummus and falafel with a freshly baked pita:




At home there is another reality. We are finishing our renovations.  I created a list of all the remaining projects to accomplish in Russian for our Russian-speaking project manager and my father who is left to supervise the work at home. My sabra husband attached a short Hebrew translation for him to keep a track of the things. The Arab worker that our contractor sent us to actually perform the work appended the Arabic translation of the items. This is the resulting multilingual work list:

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Renovations in Israel: a Tragic Comedy

People say that life could be divided into good periods and bad periods, but these are the bad periods that leave you with many good stories to tell. This is one of such stories.

Six months ago we bought a house that was almost perfect.  All we needed is an extra unit (room+ bathroom) on the roof and new stairs, all 50 of them. The owners' style was classic and modest but a bit outdated for our taste, so we thought why not fit it to ours: add some color and light. People warned us, joked about their experiences and pointed to the couples that divorced after the renovations. But we thought - it is a small job, we have a contractor and a designer in the extended family, we can trust them, we would tell them what we want, give them the keys and two months after we will move in.

Five months later, double the budget, exhausted and not quite happy with the result, we are still not living in it.

From the very first day, our renovations turned into a tragic comedy.  The actors are:
- Black kippa contractor that appears at the site once a week, usually to pick the check. Not much can take him out of his balance.
- Russian immigrant project manager that hourly rushes in-between all 6 of his construction sites and is easily inflammable. He screams daily that everything is a BIG AND IMPOSSIBLE PROBLEM, but cools down shortly and does it.
- Two to four Arab workers that have been working with our contractor for 20-30 years, some since they were 14. They live on the territories and have to wake up at 4 am to stand in line for a border control in order to get to our house at 7 am.
- A wooden stairs expert that behaves like a prima donna and is hated by all of the above but paid by me.
- Two joyful AC experts (black kippas as well) that seem to like everyone and be liked by everyone.
- A cousin designer who is patiently ushering us into her idea of what we need.
- A carpentry shop that is making what we should have bought at IKEA many months ago.
- An Arab carpenter from Nazareth that did a quick and reasonably priced job but he doesn't acknowledge that there are many different shades of white in the inner part of the closet he built for us.  For some reason he is not very much liked by the Arab workers from the territories.
- A door expert - it is still unclear whether the character he is playing is good or bad.
- Five town hall personas that I visit weekly to get all the building permits.
- A person at the National Institute of Standards that showed me that even standard fees are negotiable.
- Neighbors, that include a powerful ex-wife of a local celebrity and an unidentified photographer that sends us pictures of the garbage our workers leave behind. Among the neighbors are those that are happy to see our renovation delays since they could use our free-for-now parking spot, and those that seem genuinely supportive comparing our renovation saga to theirs.

Scene 1:
First planning meeting in the newly purchased house. The contractor, who is also our relative,  realizes that he made a big mistake, but it is too late.  He promised us, we promised him, he is our brother-in-law and intends to keep it this way. We start working together.

On a second meeting our designer suggests that we made a big mistake. Everything here is either modern or country style. But we want retro, plus an orange-and-brown kitchen, plus keep the blue Belgian windows. "Your taste is so different than mine. Why did you chose me?"  Well, she is also our relative... We are trying to convince ourselves that she is a professional, she knows better and we should listen to her.

We are shocked to realize that nothing works smoothly without our micro supervision. I leave all the consulting jobs aside and show up daily at the house managing the project manager and the project.

Tens of bureaucracy steps.  Among them, taking pictures of our bomb shelter and proving to the Home Front ministry that it is up to standard. In my purse is a 5-inch screw from the vent tube of the bomb shelter and I am hopelessly trying to find where to purchase 3 more of those so that our Arab workers can secure them. By chance I notice that screws in the playground have the same print on them. No, I didn't unscrew the playground.

We realize that we do not have a measuring tape with meter marks at home - only inch-marked tapes. We use inches and convert them to cm on our iPhones.

Scene 2:
A few months later.
The newly purchased meter becomes the most useful item in my purse, credit card is the next. Through trial-and-error we seek experts in various fields. The experts didn't always like each other and we find ourselves mediating the tension. Every two weeks the contractor sends our project manager to a few days off at home to recuperate his nerves.

We finally agree with the designer that orange-and-brown kitchen may get tiring soon and switch to a white and gray-wood-print pattern. Few weeks later, unable to find the right gray, we give up to the simple white-and-oak.  Even the carpenter is shocked by our change of heart.

The planned small job has slowly turned into what seems to be an infinite spiral. There are many more parts to this house than what we thought. Floor panels that no one has noticed before suddenly become a major issue. The designer explains to us that ceramic floor should have stone panels as ceramic panels have an un-interesting edge. I spent a few weeks searching for the right panels for each room. Panel tips have weird names such as bird beak and alligator head.

I discover the stores and prices and shocked to realize that half of our budget should be set aside for building materials (stone, windows, carpentry, sanitary equipment etc). We learn that no one likes to pay the 18% VAT tax on work and goods while we are used to being good citizens.

We are losing sleep, walking around angry and irritable. There are moments, when I am hoping Iran will bomb us now and free us from this renovations nightmare.

Scene 3:
A few more months later.
Iranian intelligence has undoubtedly spotted the disaster of our renovations, and afraid to inherit them, the Iranian president is starting to broker the peace. There is no escape for us from the renovations project but to pull it through.

Things are starting to come together but there are problems everywhere and we are starting to just ignore most of them, anxious to wrap it all soon.  We learn that we can disagree with our designer and still be friends. I happily sidestep from the color white and buy a bright red lamp but the designer allows to hang it only in the kitchen. We still want painted walls but the designer thinks it is too simple. She suggest a wall-paper. It is too expensive. Walls stay white. We buy ceramic panels with a flat tip. We now know how things should have been done but it is too late: never again will we repeat such adventure.

At the basement entrance we have a row of 6 light switches.  It takes up to 12 tries to turn the desired light into a desired state because each light could be also controlled from one or more light switches spread throughout the basement.

Every second night one of us is having renovation nightmares. We are still married but drained and pale. Our kids couldn't hear any more about the house project. They are not interested in seeing its progress either. Our son spends two weeks in the US and on his return suggests we go back there. "But what about the house?" we think.

Our friends decide to forgo renovations on their house, likely influenced by our experience. A neighbor describes her nightmarish 4-year long renovation at a block party and we feel good.

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Pick Your Own.... Paprika

In Boston this time of the year we used to go to the Marino Farm in Natick to pick apples, pears or peaches. Yesterday we drove 2 hours North to a little spice farm near Haifa to pick our own paprika. Much lower scale and less organized but much cheaper than Marino Farm, The Spice Farm, was holding a 10-day Paprika Festival. Here are paprika bushes that we picked the ripe red peppers from:




This is a paprika bath where a few green peppers were hidden among thousands of red and everyone was invited to sift through for a prize. Nadia found one.


I am standing in front of the festival's poster and proudly holding a bag of picked paprika and a dry paprika wreath Nadia and I assembled.


Scarecrow.

This farm is a popular tourist attraction and frequently holds some tours or cooking classes, in addition to an excellent spice market. Worth a visit if you are passing by.

The view of Bahaian Gardens from the main Haifa street.


Then we met a local Arab friend for a coffee in the Fattoush restaurant in Haifa. The atmosphere and food in the restaurant were so good that we almost stayed in the nearby hotel overnight in order to enjoy the dinner. Alas, the hotel was all booked and we will have to return back to Fattoush one day.

With the coffee, I had a pistachio ice cream with tahinni and honey, which was so delicious I forgot to take a picture before it was gone. Little Nili swallowed her share helping herself with a spoon and both hands.  But then when Moshe's order of kanafeh arrived, I was ready with the camera:


It is a traditional Arabic cheese pastry served with a sugary-sweet syrup.

Here is the link for Fatoush if you ever find yourself in Haifa: TripAdvisor Fatoush

A sign at the entrance to the restaurant welcomes people of all colors, cultures and religions and the mix of languages, colors and friendly laughter on this main Haifa street leaves some hope that peaceful coexistence in this part of the world may be possible.

Saturday, September 14, 2013

Yom Kippyr 2013

This year we didn't fast or went to a synagogue but rather joined the kids in their wonder of open streets that happens only once a year and for 24 hours.

6:30pm. Tel Aviv's central highway (Ayalon) is completely empty as Naor is starting his journey to the Rabin Square, then to Hertzelya and back to the Northern Tel Aviv.



7pm. Nadia and her friend are ready for a bike ride to the Tel Aviv port. After insisting on chaperoning them I realized that all school age kids are riding without parent supervision.


7:30pm More and more kids are riding into the streets. Passing under the bridge with the Disney on Ice ad.


Ayalon highway later on this Kippyr evening. Wide open for bikers. 





Youth and kids are all out on the Even Gvirol street in Tel Aviv.


8pm. Near Park ha Yarkon. 


9pm. The great new playground in the Tel Aviv port is filled with kids of all ages that rode from Tel Aviv and neighboring towns.


Tel Aviv port. The couple in white are returning from a synagogue.


Yom Kippyr Day - 100F heat. We took Nili to a playground but then stayed in till the evening packing Naor for his trip to the US.


6pm Bikers enjoy the tunnel curves.


Nadia is skateboarding near the Assyta Hospital.





A girl on a skateboard being pulled by her dog on Raoul Wallenberg street.


Sun is setting down on the Raoul Wallenberg street and the monument.


Monday, May 6, 2013

Fauna Change

We used to see wild turkeys on the way to kids' school in Newton, MA:


Now we see green parrots flying over from the Park ha Yarkon:



Our back yard in MA was a fighting rink for squirrels:



Now in Tel Aviv it is a fighting rink for cats that locals treat exactly like squirrels in MA with simultaneous love and hate. Actually, more of the latter.


Thursday, April 18, 2013

A Hug from the Land of Expected Terror to the Land of Unexpected

Our dear Boston friends. What a shock it was to learn about the Boston Marathon Bombing on the eve of Israel's Independence Day.  We were in Tel Aviv's celebration center - Rabin square - amid loud fireworks, large open air concert, foam-covered children and cars, and thousands of families with kids, teens, youth, elders celebrating outside late into the night. So proud we were to show this wild, ecstatic Israel to our Bostonian friends who arrived the day before for their son's Bar Mitzvah.  At first it seems as a mistake. A bomb? Not in Israel? Not related to the Independence Day Celebration? At our Boston, the college and sports town? During the Marathon? Why?



Just the day before was a Memorial Day - one of the saddest day of the year in Israel. The day when we (notice that "we" just slipped out of my hands naturally) mourn fallen soldiers, victims of terror, and optionally any other relatives that have passed away.  Two minute-long sirens at 8pm and 11am stop the routine life and signal the sadness of the day. In the evening most people attend community ceremonies or watch Memorial eve Service on TV. (All the other Israeli TV channels suspend their broadcasts for 24 hours.)  During the day many go to the military cemeteries to pay respect to their relatives or friends who died for the country. We went to a service organized in a small neighborhood park nearby by the local Tzofim (scouts) group that our daughter belongs to and found there most of the school families.


It was very sad and beautiful. On a make-shift stage, near the banner with the word "Remember", a few teen scouts sung, played instruments, read poetry and talked about 20 people that went to the neighborhood schools, the army, and fell in one of the recent wars, military operations, terrorist attacks or tragic car accidents while at the army.  Next morning each of the kids had another memorial ceremony at their day care and schools, returning home in a teary and contemplative mood. I read that alternative ceremonies marking both - Israeli and Palestinian - victims of wars and terror were held in at least one location in Tel Aviv.

Toward the evening, the country slowly switch from mourning those who fell to celebrating the life they fell for. Independence Day cheer was very similar to the US July 4th celebrations just a bit more unruly  We walked with our Bostonian friends all the way from the Tel Aviv beachfront to Disengof street, then to ha Bima and Rabin square. And we tried every Israeli treat along the way - fresh fruit smoothies, shwarma and falafel on Frishman, coffee with cheesecake, Pizza Agvania, Vaniglia Ice Cream and then again at midnight, oven-hot bourekas. Our US-raised kids were at first hesitant but then thrilled to use the giant foam bottles to spray each other and some structures nearby imitating others.  Music, fireworks, flashing led light toys, foam, inflatable hammers, funny blue-and-white hats and kids of all ages freely running around well past bedtime. There was so much freedom and  happiness in the air.  Our guests mused that they haven't seen this side of Israel in their previous synagogue-organized tours.




Moshe mentioned that one of the newspapers just ran an article titled "Why are Israelis so damn happy?"  A question that seemed so fitting at the moment but we couldn't discuss it with the exploding boom of the fireworks and crowd cheer.  It may be the Mediterranean Passion for life, the sunshine, the open emotions culture, large and supportive family networks or the thrill and relief of life-in-danger. Just across from our ice cream stop was a place where the last real hope for Israeli-Palestinian Peace was shot in 1995 - Prime Minister Itzhak Rabin. Not by a Palestinian terrorist but by a local educated and sane Jewish terrorist opposed to Rabin's relatively left-wing policies. A lone and angry person that confused himself to be a revolutionary just as currently suspected in the Boston Marathon terror.


Our dear Bostonian friends, we are so glad you are all safe, that you run not so fast or took a break at this marathon or changed the viewing spot just before the explosions.  We hug you from this far away land that used to the terror signs and consequences. Where too many police sirens mean that urgent news will come soon, where armed security guards are a custom at schools, malls and any public events. People here know too well how sorrow fills up your heart and all you want is to lock up your doors, huddle your family and hide everyone under the down blanket keeping them far from any danger. But then you realize that this is exactly what terrorists wanted - attention and fear. And perhaps what we all should be doing instead is continue living our wonderful ordinary lives and trying to be damn happy.